I spent the last week of August on a boat conducting an acoustics experiment
about 10 miles south of the Marquesas Keys. I also did some birding in Key West
and made a trip to the Dry Tortugas. I increased my ABA area list to 600
species on the trip.
Due to a delay in Miami (an engine went out just as the plane was about to lift
off), I arrived in Key West just before sunset on the 22nd and canceled my
birding plans for the afternoon. However, I got to see MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD
and ANTILLEAN NIGHTHAWK from the balcony of my hotel. The next day I finally
got to see WHITE-CROWNED PIGEON, a bird I had missed on a trip to Florida last
year. I visited Zachary Taylor State Historical Site in hopes of seeing ROSEATE
TERN but had no luck. However, it was nice to watch wave after wave of
migrating BARN SWALLOWS reach land's end and boldly fly out over the sea. I bid
them Godspeed!
The boat departed early on the 24th. Although the sun hadn't yet risen, there
was enough light to make out the long tail of a ROSEATE TERN perched on one of
the channel markers on the way out. I soon found that pelagic birding in this
area is relatively slow, especially when the boat is not seeking birds! The
most common birds were BARN SWALLOW, SOOTY TERN, and MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD.
When a storm set in late one afternoon, about 20 frigatebirds struggled right
past the boat against the gale. The best bird of the trip showed up the second
day. A brown morph RED-FOOTED BOOBY skimmed over the water (somewhat like a
shearwater) right in front of the bow and provided an excellent view. I was
fortunate to be on the bridge when this happened. The other big highlight was
the close approach of a pair of BROWN BOOBIES that provided an excellent view.
I also saw a few AUDUBON'S SHEARWATERS, CORY'S SHEARWATERS, BRIDLED TERNS,
ROYAL TERNS, and SANDWICH TERNS. An OSPREY flew past the bow at very close
range. I also saw small flocks of WHITE IBIS, GREEN HERON, and CATTLE EGRET. I
saw two shorebirds fly by, which appeared to be SEMIPALMATED SANDPIPER and
LESSER YELLOWLEGS.
The lights on the back of the boat attracted migrants at night. At first, I
thought I was seeing wave after wave of birds. However, it soon became apparent
that the same birds were making repeated passes. I unsuccessfully tried to get
some of the lights turned off. Although I was concerned for the welfare of the
birds, they seemed to eventually get their bearings and continue on their way.
On our last night at sea, however, we were hit by a severe storm and the same
birds continued to circle for a few hours. A GREEN HERON and a few warblers
landed on the boat. A NORTHERN PARULA perched on a string dangling in front of
the window I was watching from and hung on for dear life in a driving rain. It
was startled by a tremendous thunder clap a flew over to a rope, where it
perched in the rain and wind. A desperate NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH landed on the
back deck. I couldn't take it anymore and was more forceful and finally got the
damn lights turned off. Otherwise I may have smashed them out! The birds
continued to circle for a while but eventually seemed to move on. Or perhaps
they just ran out of energy and crashed into the sea.
The GREEN HERON remained on board until the next morning. It made an attempt to
fly away but struggled back to the boat. It finally flew out, gave out a loud
skwawk, gained a few hundred feet of altitude, and headed south on strong
wingbeats. I watched it until it became a speck and disappeared. I think it had
plenty of strength but just had to recover from a terrifying night. I walked
around the boat looking for other birds and found a dead PROTHONOTARY WARBLER.
Just before sunrise, I saw a small bird fly away from the boat and land on the
water. Since this action was apparently deliberate, I was confused at first
trying to figure out what it was. I was able to see it sitting on the water
about 80 feet from the boat. I realized it must have been a warbler when it
tried to lift off from the water. I was about to dive in to try to save it but
it disappeared beneath the waves. I realized it would have been hopeless to
swim out and try to locate it. It was a terrible thing to witness.
On this trip, I learned that boats can be deathtraps to birds. There ought to
be laws regulating the use of lights, especially along migration routes during
spring and fall. The same applies to oil rigs, which are a blight on much of
the Gulf Coast. Ornithologists have been exploiting these platforms for
migration studies. I think that they should instead be lobbying for some new
regulations to protect the migrants. I also suspect that their studies are
flawed. It was only after I started trying to identify individual birds that I
realized that I was seeing the same group of about 20 warblers rather than wave
after wave of them. They would apparently fly far out into the dark before
circling back. It would be very difficult to figure this out when observing a
much larger group of birds. Perhaps some of the dramatic reports that have come
from oil rigs merely involve hundreds or thousands of birds circling rather
than much larger numbers passing throughout the night. Considering that birds
reach many of the oil rigs near the end of long flights during the spring,
these platforms must be terrible deathtraps indeed.
We returned to Key West on the 30th. The next day, I took the Yankee Freedom to
the Dry Tortugas. It was the best $85 I have spent for birding, with the
exception of what has become known as the "Hall-of-Fame Pelagic Trip" that was
run by Brian Patteson out of Hatteras earlier in the month. The fare includes
breakfast and a nice cookout on Garden Key. I'm glad I didn't dump hundreds of
dollars into one of the more lucrative trips. The captain and crew were
extremely helpful. Although I was the only birder on board, the captain swung
by Hospital Key and stopped so I could see the MASKED BOOBIES! Upon arrival, I
entered the fort to watch warblers at the water fountain. I saw NASHVILLE
WARBLER, NORTHERN PARULA, YELLOW WARBLER, YELLOW-THROATED WARBLER, PRAIRIE
WARBLER, BLACK-AND-WHITE WARBLER, AMERICAN REDSTART, PROTHONOTARY WARBLER, and
OVENBIRD. I caught a glimpse of the tail of a raptor, which I believe was a
COOPER'S HAWK, as it flew into a tree. At the North Coaling Dock, I saw a large
number of BROWN NOODIES, several MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRDS and BROWN PELICANS,
and a BROWN BOOBY. About 100 MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRDS were circling above Long
Key. I ate lunch in the campground near the South Coaling Dock and enjoyed
watching warblers foraging in the trees.
I returned to the North Coaling Docks to savor the BROWN NODDIES. It's a good
thing I did because there were two BLACK NODDIES (Number 600 for me) mixed in.
I had been worried about differentiating the noddies but found that the
differences are striking when they are perched side-by-side. Talk about a great
birding site! I was able to see BROWN NODDY, BLACK NODDY, BROWN BOOBY, BROWN
PELICAN, and MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD all perched at close range in the same
binocular view. Other birds I saw on Garden Key include WHITE IBIS, CATTLE
EGRET, DOUBLE-CRESTED CORMORANT, WILLET, SPOTTED SANDPIPER, RUDDY TURNSTONE,
SHORT-BILLED DOWITCHER, LAUGHING GULL, ROYAL TERN, SANDWICH TERN, MOURNING
DOVE, EASTERN KINGBIRD, RED-EYED VIREO, BARN SWALLOW, a female oriole, and a
flycatcher. One of the park employees told me that perhaps a few hundred CATTLE
EGRET starve to death every year on Garden Key. This is another issue on which
I wish someone would act. The center of the fort contains a large grassy area
that must appear to be good habitat to CATTLE EGRET. Why not modify it to
discourage them from landing on this deathtrap? Planting more trees might be a
good option. This idea would also benefit the warblers.
When I got home, I was eager to get into some fall birding. However, I first
had to rescue a starling that showed up next to my feeder dangling from a fence
on a string. I had to cut a few links from the fence in order to extract it.
The string was wound around the poor bird's feet so many times that it took my
wife and me about 20 minutes to remove it. The next morning, I stopped by
Wakefield Park, which is just outside the Beltway in Northern Virginia. The
first migrant I saw was a CONNECTICUT WARBLER!